Virtual Tour of the PM 1440 E Large Bore

–Modified from my original forum post–

Machine details:  I received this machine early September 2014.  I ordered this machine based on anecdotal evidence of people generally having fewer issues than its counterparts.  The way these things go in future years there are bound to be some revisions.  Each importer usually has certain details they have done specifically for them, and I won’t be able to list them or keep up with the changes.  However, it is very likely that much of what you see here will be applicable to a broad swath of machines including but not limited to: Quality Machine Tools PM1236 and PM1340 (no suffixes); Grizzly G4003g and G0705g; Bolton Tools BT1337g, BT1440 and BT1440g.
It is equipped with a 3hp motor.
A pull out chip tray and cast iron base
The change gear setting for inch thread also does turning. .0041 inch/rev through .0548 inch/rev and tpi of: 4,5,8,10,16,20,32 and 40 all with no gear changes.
Back side view of tail stock. Both cams are shown in locked position.
The compound scale is on of those non “standard” reading. Reads 60 ish degrees for traditional threading.
The compound has a tapered gib and feels very smooth plus nice and solid (to a guy used to a jet 9×20).
Not really any accommodation for auxiliary mounting to the cross slide. Didn’t occur to me to check that before I ordered. The carriage has the steady follow mounted when shipped. the two threaded holes can be seen here.
The threading dial is the 1,2,3,4 type. I will have to get used to that.
A close up of the ways. The groove is hand painted.

Comes with a safety shield. Mine felt like the mount was a little loose so I “temporarily” removed it and accidentally cut the wire leading to it (and butt spliced them together). You know just until I decide what to do.


This is under the mount for the safety shield. Looks hand crafted. I put the base block back on to cover it up. Maybe I will find something else to mount to it.
I ordered the micrometer carriage stop with my lathe. The spring pin isn’t quite seated deep enough to keep the knob in place and the area that sits on the vee of the bed has a lot of paint on it. The set screws that are there to shim the bottom plate are directly in front of the hex bolts that hold it together which makes getting a wrench in there very tricky. I’ll probably do a bit of rework to this part.
A view under the hood. There was a little vibration until I tightened up the belts a bit.  You can see the blue bar reaching up that is the linkage to the foot brake.  There are brake pads inside the drum/pulley.
It comes with the cute little hip toolbox too.

A few more items for the record:
The cross slide reads reduction of the diameter.

And the compound reads radius (depth of cut).  Note how the cross slide and compound vernier differ.  Machines with inch lead screws are supposed to have red on the inch increments.  My machine snuck out with a metric lead screw dial.  A replacement was promptly shipped upon alerting the seller.

The threading dial chart is not on the lathe. This is from the owners manual. According to Matt, the hashes between 1234 are 5678 so 15263748. and where the manual states 1.3 it means 1 or 3.

An idiosyncrasy I noticed is the carriage feed direction lever label.
In this picture the lever is set to feed the carriage towards the spindle, which makes sense, but the label doesn’t really make any sort of sense to me. In the manual the picture of the label shows the direction arrows the opposite way, which makes more sense to me.

To me the tail stock seemed to slide when locked way too easily, so I investigated. The clamp block under the ways was not clamping flat with only the diagonally opposite corners touching.
Looks like a beaver with ADD got ahold of the part.

I clamped the block inverted with the misalignment split between both sides and made just enough of a pass to give a reference surface.

I then flipped the block over and set the fresh ref surfaces on parallels. Again taking just enough of a cut to get through the mess. That seemed to have helped a bunch.

The bottom of the tail stock is another matter, it is scraped true.

I didn’t really get into the DRO yet did I? Well let me tell you, this is a big deal. No, you all already understand why a DRO is handy, I mean the fact that it was delivered installed and set up. I have supervised similar installations on a mill and lathe. I don’t think most of us could do this install in less than an entire Saturday. The Easson DRO looks decent and has good documentation. I could barely fit my point and shoot camera behind the bed to get a pic of the mounting, glad I didn’t have to try to reach in there!
Cross slide viewed from the tail stock end. X on the DRO.
Long axis (Y on the DRO Z to CNC guys) viewed from the headstock end.
Bottom of the Y scale.
DRO head unit with wire routing. The base was bolted to the top of the lathe, I just had to thread the head on and plug in the wires.
Wire routing under behind the machine. Wires were laying in the chip pan when I received it, but I like them hanging behind better. The pan does not quite pinch them.

Caution: Some people may find the following pics too revealing.

A shot behind the apron

Bottom of the bed from tailstock end.
No sand.
Under the bed and apron from headstock.
Up through the bed with the carriage centered over the opening.
A view of the tailstock through the bore. Red fuzzies are from me swabbing with a cheap shop rag.



Here is the coolant system. The sump is located in the tailstock cabinet.
Drain in the removable chip tray tail stock end.

Drain visible in the back lines up over this trough when slid in normal position.
Trough directs the coolant down to the sump.
Overview through access panel on the side furthest from the headstock.
Pump name plate.
Impeller (inside sump)
Flexible metallic hose mounted to the back of the carriage
End nozzle to adjust flow is plated plastic.

OK, I think I have cataloged almost everything now. Here is the light:
Base mount and ratings.

The elbow with tension adjustment.

Top adjuster and reflector. On/off switch is on the black handle.

Throws a good amount of light on the cut area.
I actually like this light a lot compared to any other adjustable arm type I have used. It is easy to adjust and doesn’t drift.
It is powered with the machine main switch. I may change that at some point so the light can be on to setup the lathe chuck while the main power is off, but for now I just hit the e stop.

I also did a RPM test. I used a $14 portable optical tach that has NOT been calibrated to anything, so this is for reference only.
Put the reflective tape on the spindle nut and ran through all the speeds with these results:
Indicated Read
70 84.6
115 138.5
190 229
300 362.2
460 408
760 665
1225 1095
2000 1720

I swapped out the stock chuck for a Bison. Really the only reason I wanted a new chuck was for the 2 piece jaws. I can’t figure out all the Bison model-catalog-style number stuff, it seems like they are mid-stream switching numbering systems. This is a plain back 8″ 3 jaw steel scroll chuck with matching D1-5 back plate. Not the adjustable kind.
Freshly mounted (sorry about the mess). Mounted a couple times and verified less than .002″ (about halfway between the .001 and .002 mark) TIR 1″ from chuck.

Original vs new.

BTW. If you ever get a new chuck, no matter how well you clean it, don’t stand directly in line with it when you turn the lathe on. Or if you do be prepared to wipe some oil off your face. Guess how I know.

I was having a slight chirp when starting the lathe in high gear so I had to tension the belts more. I pulled out this high precision tensioning device.


Now she runs smooth and no chirps.

Did the first oil change now. I followed a recommendation and took the cover off the head and pumped the oil out. I got this pump at my local auto parts store along with 1 gallon of hydraulic oil ISO-32 with anti wear additives. I think they carry it for floor jacks.



Do the lower gear box and apron first. The hose that comes with the pump fits both of the fill holes perfectly so the inside of the hose will be clean. Once you pump the main gearbox out, there will be some metal shavings that stick to the inside of the hose. I was able to fill all three reservoirs with less than one gallon of oil.
apron drain
Apron drain (underneath). With the chip pan pulled this is almost a straight shot to the catch container. Just dribbles on the front stand rail a bit.
apron fill
Apron fill.

I was a little surprised at first to discover that the cover is just a thick piece of plastic. I guess it won’t rust ever. The only metal shavings I found inside were made when the factory installed the chuck interference cover.

The pump worked well to drain the tank with little mess till near the bottom.

A few more shots of the gear box
After pumping the oil till sucking air, I opened the drain to get the rest.
head drains
Headstock drains. The lower gearbox drain went about the same as the end of the main gearbox. Someday I will have epoxy floors so it will be easier to clean up.
lower gearbox fill
Lower gear box fill.

FYI the sight glass on my main gearbox was leaking and I backed it off about 3/4 of a turn and now it does not leak anymore.